The Metal Effects product is a two-step rusting process. The process involves applying paint containing iron flakes to your project surface, then applying an acid to rust the iron in the paint. The end result is a real rusted surface not a faux paint treatment. It’s very simple and can be used on any surface to which the paint sticks. I’ve used this product on metal, glass, clay and paper. I liked the result so much I even rusted a wall in my house.
What You Will Need:
- Modern Masters Metal Effects Reactive Paint – Iron (it comes in various sizes and can be purchased at several online stores). Be sure to purchase the Iron paint as they sell other reactive paints.
- Modern Masters Metal Effects – Rust Activator (it comes in various sizes and can be purchased at several online stores). Be sure to purchase the Rust Activator as they sell other activators for other metals.
- Optional - Primer product to seal the surface before the rust treatment.If you are concerned about the rusting process damaging the surface underneath you can use a priming product. This would be more of an issue in very damp climates or where the object is out in the elements. For most art projects priming is probably not necessary. Modern Masters sells a blocking primer. For paper surfaces you could use Gesso as a blocking primer.
- Optional - Product to seal the surface after the rust treatment. If you live in a very damp climate or if the object is out in the elements you may want to seal the surface at the end of the process to prevent further rusting. For most indoor art projects this may not be necessary. Modern Masters sells a sealer or you could use other sealing products.
In this tutorial I’ll be rusting paper. The process is the same for any surface. At the end of the tutorial I’ve included pictures of other types of surfaces that I’ve rusted. One thing to note is that although the paint sticks to non-porous surfaces (glass, plastic and metal) it is not absorbed into the surface so it is easy to scratch.
Step One – Applying the Metal Effects Reactive Paint (Iron)
- Apply primer to your surface and allow the surface to dry (optional). In this example I started with a piece of white cardstock backed with chipboard. I did not apply a primer.
Step Two – Applying the Rust Activator
- It will take some time for the rusting to begin. As the Rust Activator dries, apply more Activator to the parts of the surface were you want more rusting.
You can see in the two examples below, that the results will differ depending on how much Activator you use and where you let it puddle.
If you live in a very damp climate or if the object is out in the elements, you may want to seal the surface at the end of the process to prevent further rusting. For most indoor art projects this may not be necessary. Modern Masters sells a sealer or you could use other sealing products.
One of the great things about this product is that you can choose to rust only certain areas your surface. In the example below, I started with a piece of chipboard backed cardstock that I crackled with Ranger Crackle Paint. Next, I dripped globs of the Iron Paint onto the surface. Lastly, I applied the Rust Activator. As you can see, only the areas with Iron Paint are rusted. As the Rust Activator sits on the surface of your piece, you’ll notice the liquid becoming rusty. In the example below, I liked how the rusty liquid bled onto the blue.
In the example below, I started with a piece of chipboard backed cardstock that I crackled with Ranger Crackle Paint. Next, I applied a rub-on-on transfer image I created with Grafix Rub-Onz (click here for the tutorial on this process). Then I applied the Iron Paint and finally the Rust Activator.
The paper clay was first embossed with a rubber stamp, and then rusted. This process works with any type of clay.
I applied the paint to only some of the surface so that you could still see that the surface is glass.
I liked this product so much I rusted a wall.
Original article and pictures take artfullymusing.blogspot.com site
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